Here’s the second in my series of easy knitting patterns. I have actually made several of these in varying stripes and colors, depending on whether the intended recipient was male or female. The one in the photo was made for my husband. Rib patterns are nice for scarves because they look pretty much the same on both sides. They’re a really great off-to-college gift, too, if you work them in school colors.

One thing I really like about using quadruple ribbing for a scarf knitting pattern is that it looks fairly skinny in its normal drawn-in state. But if you need to pull it tight around your face, it will stretch out to cover you from nose to chin. Also, I like to keep the stripe pattern simple. If you put in a lot of different stripe sizes, you end up needing a chart. And part of my Easy Knitting Patterns philosophy is to avoid row charts as much as possible.

Yarn:

(A) ~121 yd/110m Berat Softee Chunky #39040 Black (100% acrylic)

(B) ~ 30 yd/27m Patons Shetland Chunky Tweeds #67532 Deep Red (72% acrylic, 25% wool, 3% viscose)

OR any other two colors of bulky #5 yarn

Needles: size 10 or 10-1/2

Hook: size E, F or G (for weaving in ends) OR a yarn needle

Finished Size: roughly 3” x 52” (If you want it longer, you’ll need 2 skeins of Black)

Gauge: pretty much unimportant—I use the “looks good” method for scarves

Scarf Knitting Pattern

Cast on 28 sts.

All rows: *K4, P4*, repeat across row.

Row counts for color changes (A=black, B=red):

6A – 8B – 4A – 8B – 4A – 8B – about 3 ft of A – 8B – 4A – 8B – 4A – 8B – 6A

(You will need about 10 yards of (A) at the end, after the (B) stripes start again.)

Bind off. Weave in ends.

Pattern Tip: Ribbed patterns seem like they’re going to be wider than you want until you’ve done several rows. Then the tightening effect of the ribbing starts to make your item narrower.

When making the quadruple rib, I like to select an odd multiple of 4 (such as 4×5, 4×7, or 4×9). By selecting an odd multiple, I know each row will start the same (with K4). If I were to pick an even multiple, every second row would start with P4. That’s fine to do, but I then have to remember to pay a hair’s more attention at the beginning of each row. The best way to think of it is: Knit the Knit stitches and Purl the Purl stitches.

Yarn Tip: Be careful when mixing yarn fibers as I have done here. Make sure the recipient is aware that he/she must hand wash with cold water and dry flat. Otherwise, the yarn with wool content may shrink a bit, pulling the stripes in tighter than the background.

Frugal Tip: For this project, I tried to come as close as possible to using one entire skein of the main color (Black), without needing to start into a second skein. To do this, I had to estimate how much Black I was going to need once the striping started at the end.

An easy way to estimate a yard is to measure by holding one end of the yarn in your fingers and stretching the yarn back to the opposite shoulder (for example, right hand to left shoulder). Don’t pull the yarn too tight when doing this.

For this pattern, when I think I’m getting close to starting stripes again, I measure out how much Black I’ll need to finish. Starting from the end of the yarn strand, I count out 10 yards as described. Then I put a slip knot in the yarn at the 10-yard point. This way I just keep knitting the middle section until I can’t finish a row without hitting the knot.

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